Utah and the Southwest

James, Chelsea, Bob and Lisa enjoying the Downtown Farmer’s Market

Having been away for seven of the last eleven months, it felt good to be home in Salt Lake City. Our home had been well cared for by Colleen and Tucker Weathers, the recent newlyweds. We enjoyed seeing our daughter, Chelsea, and her husband James. Chelsea spent time interviewing for a job with the Salt Lake Women’s Clinic and a possible job as an Ob/Gyn. We enjoyed time at the Farmer’s Market and at home. We’ll be crossing our fingers, hoping she’ll return to Utah following her residency in Columbus, Ohio.

Being on sabbatical means you can go hear a concert versus performing in one. We took advantage of that opportunity by going to hear the Utah Symphony with Kristin Chenoweth up at Deer Valley. Our seats were high up the hill, but Ms. Chenoweth was in excellent form. Her rendition of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” was really beautiful and the duet from “Wicked” that she sang with a surprisingly talented audience member was especially memorable. 4,999 other people seemed to agree. Colleen and Tucker shared the blanket and experience with us. It’s fun having a picnic under the stars!

Kristin Chenoweth concert at Deer Valley

We also made it up to Deer Valley to hear the orchestra again, this time with Diana Krall. She and her five-member band were terrific! I loved her version of “Do It Again” and “Let’s Fall in Love”. My violin-playing colleague for the past 35 years, Tom Baron, was playing his final concert with the orchestra. His wife, Carolee, and a visiting Ron Holdman (former timpanist with the Utah Symphony) joined us on the hillside. Diana Krall’s program had both variety and emotion. I also noticed some beautiful oboe playing from Lissa Stolz.

When you are away from home for long periods, the changes you see can be dramatic. New apartments are popping up in several locations, and the Sugarhouse area is now home to many new restaurants and a fancy new movie theater. We went to see “Mission: Impossible – Rogue Nation” in the newly remodeled movie theater. The seats were luxurious and the movie was a lot of fun. One of the scenes involved the Vienna State Opera House where we had seen Wagner’s “Ring Cycle” just three month ago. Tom Cruise helped save the day from an assassin who used a rifle disguised as a bass flute. The security guard should have known what Lisa stated to me, “There’s no bass flute in Turandot!”

Bob in his studio

Between visits to three major oboe dealers in Los Angeles, Paris and London, I felt motivated to buy a new oboe. Last week, that’s what I did! The same shop in Los Angeles that supplied me with my first instrument 50 years ago, did so again. With a couple of weeks to go before the new orchestra season begins, I’m breaking it in slowly, testing notes with a tuner, making new reeds and running the humidifier. I played the instrument at home, with Lisa, at the University of Utah and on stage at Abravanel Hall. The real test will be when I’m “tooting my own horn” while surrounded by 85 other musicians. That’ll be fun!

Beautiful Moab

Lisa and I make a yearly trip to Grand Junction, Colorado to have her flutes worked on by an excellent repair person, Sherry Lee. This particular trip included travelling along the scenic byway near Moab and seeing the “Needles Overlook”. It reinforced the idea that Utah is a beautiful state. We enjoyed a nice stay at the Doubletree Hotel and found a delicious Japanese restaurant, Suehiro, on Main Street in Grand Junction.

We continued the drive south to Prescott, Arizona to see my mother. A couple of miles before my mom’s home on Ruth Street we could hear the intermittent roar of cicadas. This chubby insect with translucent wings spends most of its life underground. I’m talking up to 17 years! Their mating call from the surrounding treetops appears carefully orchestrated. One morning I awoke before 7:00am. It was quiet, but already warming up. At exactly 7:03am the first roar of cicadas began. The giant collective crescendo is enough to cause you to cover your ears. A few stragglers hang on at the end of the rising and falling love call before it all begins again. This goes on all day!

Mary Stephenson, Bob and Lisa in Prescott, AZ

Chris Tarvin, one of my mother’s dearest friends, joined us in the garden for an evening performance of a duet I wrote for ceramic flute and oboe. The working title is “The Call of the Winds”. The outdoor setting is fitting, even with a few hundred cicadas in heat. The ceramic flute was made in Salt Lake City by Leslie Randolph and has a gorgeous sound. It probably helps that Lisa knows how to handle all its earthy eccentricities. We all enjoyed a “friendly” game of pool and catching up on each other’s lives.

Bob, Chris and a Cicada

For an 87-year old woman, my mom is doing pretty well. Her mental faculties are good and all her gardening keeps her especially active. She’s lost a lot of her peripheral vision, which means she has to watch her step, and her hearing may have gone down hill. The following is an exchange she had with Lisa:

Lisa: “So, have you had a lot of cicadas this year?”
Mom: “Oh yes. They’ve done really well.”
Lisa: “More than usual?”
Mom: “Yes. And we’ve enjoyed eating them.”
*silence
Lisa: “Are we talking about the same thing?”
Mom: “I thought you were asking about my potatoes.”
Lisa: “Oh, no. I was asking about the cicadas!”

We took about 12 hours to get back to Salt Lake City. Smoke from wildfires in the western states kept us company for the entire trip. We got back in time for Lisa to hear flute auditions at the University of Utah. It was a long day.

Vladimir, Maja Bogdanovic, Lisa and Bob enjoying coffee at Cafe D’Bolla

On his last day in Salt Lake City we met up with Vladimir Kulenovic and Maja Bogdanovic at Caffe d’Bolla. After conducting hundreds of concerts over a four-year period with the Utah Symphony, “Vlada” is off to Chicago and his Music Director post with the Lake Forest Symphony Orchestra. For the 1200-mile trip he had a very big U-haul truck and a car filled to the top! I noticed a large collection of tuxedoes and tails hanging by the front passenger seat. Maja popped out of the trunk when we met them in the parking lot on 400 South. Lisa enjoyed a very expensive cup of coffee. I had tea. We wished them safe travels.

Flute choir performing for April Clayton and Chase Kimball’s wedding

We went to the wedding reception for BYU flute teacher, April Clayton, and her husband, Chase Kimball. Lisa played in a 16-piece flute choir and we met up with old friends, Erich Graf and Ricklen Nobis, two outstanding musicians. Erich played principal flute with the Utah Symphony for more than 30 years and Rick wrote an oboe d’amore concerto for me along with teaching two of my kids the piano. They both looked good. We’ll look to find Erich’s new book chronicling his life in music. April was a happy and beautiful bride.

Lisa with student Jacqueline Noel

We had a nice visit with Jackie Noel, former student of Lisa’s and mine. Unfortunately, for the oboe world, Jackie stuck with the flute and is now attending music school at McGill University in Montreal. After lunch, Jackie played for Lisa, revealing improvements in many areas. It’s nice when your students are successful.

The smoke outside may be lessening. Inside, I can hear the sounds of Lisa practicing. We’re still on a musical journey, and it’s time to continue breaking in a new oboe.

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes

The Final Two Weeks in Sewanee, Tennessee

Wildlife in Sewanee

The University of the South in Sewanee, Tennessee has southern roots going back to the 1860s. There’s a slow pace and gentle rhythm to everyday life on this hilltop town. The grave sites of Confederate soldiers can be spotted in the cemetery I walk by on a daily basis. The slow and light traffic on campus allows for the sounds of nature to come through. Songbirds in the morning, musicians during the day and cicadas and croaking frogs at night give this small community their signature sound. There’s a wind that hits the leaves of the tallest trees that makes it sound like rain, even when the skies are clear. Carilloners perform recitals several times during the Sewanee Summer Music Festival, and at the beginning of the month, an all-girl bluegrass band took time out to entertain those dining in the 1,000-seat cafeteria. When I asked the Pierce brothers, Jim and Joe, two avid bird watchers if they could tell they were in Sewanee by just listening, they both replied “Yes”.

Besides the active birds in Sewanee, the campus mascot, who I call “Shaggs”, roams the area around the Stirling’s restaurant. Shaggs has a heavy coat that is usually wet from his walks in a nearby stream. His gray whiskers and happy spirit blend in with the timeless atmosphere. Pepe and Paco LePugh, two neighborhood skunks, patrol the bridge my students must cross on way to their lessons and studio class. Fortunately, I don’t hear about any students needing a tomato juice bath! Squirrels play “tag” between the giant trees and deer and bunny rabbits are a common sight. Fat bugs and a variety of colorful butterflies add to the Sewanee experience.

Sewanee, Tennessee has an unusual distinction. It is the only town in North America that is classified as a rain forest! Eight days with rain helped it live up to it’s reputation, and when it comes down it can be drenching. Timing your trips between buildings can be important. The weather app saved me several times!

The weather was good enough for the students to perform an outdoor concert at the Sewanee Inn and Country Club. My students, Katrina Kwantes and Jenna Sehmann, played beautifully in the Haydn Symphony No. 100. Haydn’s “Military” symphony takes on a special quality when the snare drum and tympani aren’t confined to the walls of a concert hall.

Bob Stephenson performing Telemann Taffelmusik

My own performances include the music of Georg Philipp Telemann, the Hindemith Woodwind Quintet and the Ludwig Thuille Sextet. The stage is hot, but the collaboration with my gifted colleagues is always fun. Someday we can look forward to the air-conditioner being fixed.

The studio class and summer experiment proves to be a big success. My twelve students are introduced to 21 points of musical expression and in front of several other faculty members they all perform in a convincing style. The woodwind faculty begins discussing an expanded version that we can use next summer. In a year my hope is that all the young musicians who play flute, oboe, clarinet and bassoon will have ideas about phrasing that will highlight their musicianship. I keep telling them “It has to be about more than just getting the notes!”

The oboes all went out for Mexican food at Mi Casa. The chips and salsa are worth the trip. Many of them have trouble “leaving work at the office”. There was plenty of talk about the oboe.

The class recital was another highpoint. Their performances contained some special moments. SSMF alumni, Wilson Harmon, returned to offer his keyboard skills. For two of the young oboists it was the first time they had ever played a solo in public!

Sewanee Oboe Class Recital

The student orchestras performed many works, including Symphonic Metamorphosis by Hindemith and Scheherazade by Rimsky-Korsakov. There is always that youthful enthusiasm and satisfaction in hearing them do well. I enjoyed reporting back to Lisa about her student from the University of Utah, Cindy Chen, who sailed through the Hindemith in expert fashion. It was nice to see and hear Memphis Symphony Music Director, Mei-Ann Chen, lead the Sewanee Symphony through a challenging program. The repertoire, which included Scheherazade, A Midsummer Night’s Dream by Mendelssohn and “Blue Cathedral” by Jennifer Higdon was played with precision and expression. Her leadership in conducting five concertos was especially good, and having a twelve year old cellist win the “competition” gives everyone hope for the future.

Students in Dvořák Serenade

The end of the festival means faculty, staff and students head off in every direction. My floor-mate, violinist Shi-Hwa Wang from Utah, heads to the Esterhazy Palace in Eisenstadt, Austria for an 18-day music festival. Because Lisa and I were there two months ago, I shared pictures on my iPhone that Shi-Hwa quickly identified. I tell him how jealous I am to be playing in a place where many of Haydn’s works were played for the first time! For a second year in a row, on the morning after the final concerts, I had a choice of any seat in the cafeteria. The cafeteria staff is very friendly, and since I never missed a meal, they got use to my bearded face. I tell them all “I’ll see you in eleven months!”

Flutist Cindy Chen and Oboist Jenna Sehmann in Sewanee Woodwind Quintet

Upon returning my tray I’m pretty sure I can hear a songbird announcing a new day. It’s that or a young piccolo player getting in a last session of practice before a flight home. Hopefully, the 180 students who called Sewanee home for four weeks leave this special place with an added dose of inspiration.

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes

Lisa in Arcata and More Sewanee

Sequoia Chamber Music Workshop faculty

On the “left coast” in the shade of giant redwoods and the cool temperatures of Northern California, Lisa spent a couple of weeks working on the faculty for the Sequoia Chamber Music Workshop. After more than 20 years of coaching chamber music, she describes the area as a place with scenic beauty and dear friends. Violinist Cynthia Moyer from Arcata opens her home to Lisa and the two have a common love of the outdoors. Bird feeders and a beautiful view make for an entertaining time. The binoculars are usually close by.

Mendocino coastline

Humboldt State University houses one of the great chamber music libraries in the United States and, along with close friend Armand Ambrosini and several other talented musicians, Lisa helps bring small musical ensembles to life. This summer Lisa had the chance to coach both junior high and high school students for a week and seasoned adults for a week. The experiences were quite contrasting. After a week with the adults there was reason to ask “Now, which week had the kids?” Sometimes a prima donna can stamp her foot loudly enough that the needs of the many do NOT outweigh the needs of the few, but now Lisa can put “referee” on her resume.

In Mendocino with Lisa and oboist Ruth Stuart Burroughs

Lisa spent some wonderful time with an old friend and oboist, Ruth Stuart Burroughs. Their pictures along the coast of Mendocino were particularly beautiful and running into a 4th of July parade was an unexpected bonus. Time with family in Murphys, California was especially enjoyable.

Back in Sewanee, Tennessee, it rained for eight days in a row. The music festival here is charging ahead into Week #3. We had our own 4th of July parade where the storms cleared and the town doubled in size. Students from the festival marched, played their instruments and waved flags. There’s plenty of red, white and blue and the police and fire department come out in force. Their sirens don’t come with a mute button! Several of my students joined me on stage for a band concert. It featured plenty of Sousa marches. The cafeteria serves a lot of red, white and blue. The cherry cobbler was especially good.

4th of July Parade, Sewanee, TN

Performances are nearly every day. Cellist Joshua Roman came to give a recital, but my colleagues stole the show! Percussionist, John Kilkenny, violinist Jonathan Magness and cellist Anthony Kitai had starring roles that made me proud to be a part of the faculty.

The two student orchestras did amazingly well on just five rehearsals each. The college musicians played Stravinsky’s “Firebird”. Larry Livingston came in from his duties at USC and really inspired the musicians. His tall and lean frame accompanied by a dramatic head of white hair certainly caught my attention and despite falling off the podium, he seemed in excellent control. Fortunately, no one was hurt and the music continued on despite the incident.

4th of July Band Rehearsal, Sewanee, TN

Gabriella Alberico 19th birthday, Sewanee, TN

My 12 students continue to have inspiring moments. If they make it to the finish line, I think they’ll have some memories to last a lifetime. We took some time out to celebrate the 19th birthday of my student, Gabriella Alberico. I composed a serenade for 12 oboes that we played in unison for her. Hearing 12 oboes gives understanding why our ancient oboe ancestors were used to rally the troops during times of war. It was slightly frightening!

During the week I’ll be performing Telemann and Hindemith in recitals here and in Chattanooga. Playing with people like Tony Kitai, flutist Pat George, bassoonist Hunter Thomas, clarinetist Chad Burrow, french hornist Alex Shuhan and pianist Amy Dorfman is a real pleasure. We’re all aware that there are at least 12 sets of ears in the audience hanging on every note! It’s a festival where you also have to prove yourself. But being a professional musician is that way. Fortunately, I still enjoy practicing.

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes

Back in the States: Jet Lag, a Wedding and Packing Our Bags Again!

The Byrnes clan

When you’ve been away from home for three months and Europe is seven times zones to the east, it can take a while for your body to adjust. At 3 a.m. something’s telling you to get up. Part of your brain is repeating “There’s a lot to do”! The to-do list is long and includes things like addressing bills, getting a sprinkler system running, having your cars inspected, preparing for guests, seeing students, getting a haircut, sifting through a couple of boxes of mail, trying to practice your instrument, organizing masterclass topics and running a multitude of errands. Somehow, it gets done.

Following months of careful preparation, the Byrnes, Weathers and Hampton clans descended on Salt Lake City for the wedding between Colleen Hampton and Tucker Weathers. Jonathan Byrnes officiated the ceremony, which took place in a small amphitheater up Big Cottonwood Canyon in Salt Lake City. The weather was gorgeous, as was the bride, and the vows exchanged were personal and endearing. The couple have known each other since elementary school, and a true picture of happiness radiates from them both. After living in our home for a year, they now have an apartment less than a block away. Lisa is already planning on weekly Sunday dinners. The newly married couple would head off for Glacier National Park, fitting for a pair so connected to the outdoors. Aunt Lisa wonders what happened to the little boy she’s known since his very first day. Tucker’s a man now and I remind her “He’s only a block away”!

Colleen Hampton, Tucker Weathers, Bob and Lisa

It’s never a good time to get sick, but sick I got in the days following the wedding. A trip to the clinic on 900 East revealed I had a prostate infection. Dr. McNally made the right call and prescribed “Ciprofloxacin”, an antibiotic. Sparing you the gory details, I began to make a slow recovery.

My son, Kendall Stephenson, came back to Salt Lake City for a week and, with his sister Gretchen, we went out for Thai food the night before I left for Tennessee. Kendall graduated last month from the master’s program at the New School of Social Research in New York City and is on the job hunt. Gretchen got a promotion at the Sun Company in Salt Lake City and seemed especially happy. As a Dad, it’s nice to not be worrying about your kids.

For a fifth summer I have returned to the mountains of northern Tennessee and the Sewanee Summer Music Festival. The festival has been in existence for 57 years and takes place at the University of the South. The campus is consistently voted one of the most beautiful in the country. The buildings look like castles and churches. Tall trees and expansive lawns dominate the grounds. We commonly see squirrels, deer, rabbits, frogs, turtles and a variety of birds. A couple of bright red cardinals make their home close to my studio and the songbirds are forever whistling a happy tune. Powerful rainstorms are common enough to convince you to carry an umbrella and poncho. My dorm room is next door to the Woodwind House I share with the flute and clarinet studios, so if I make a dash for it, I’ll get wet versus getting drenched! The dorms and studios are stark, and the bed is like sleeping on a trampoline. We are without hooks, shelves or mirrors, and a shared bathroom means I must be sensitive to my fellow floor-mate. The studios were so loud I began hanging sheets to improve the acoustics, but 12 talented young oboe players make it all worthwhile. The faculty is made up of about 20 devoted teachers. Students this summer number 180 and come from five different countries and 39 different states. The energy level is high and the eagerness to learn is strong. Weekly lessons and masterclasses make it possible for me to make a difference. Faculty recitals had me enjoying a performance of the Beethoven Piano/Wind Quintet, with Telemann coming up later this week. After three months without my oboe, it felt good to get back to playing. My students range from 16 to 22. They are probably “stars” back home and several will be stars here, too. Their lessons, chamber music and orchestral assignments keep them very busy. This summer my students are part of an experiment. I have gathered examples of the “musical opportunities” we see in the music on our stands. We are focusing on musical expression, dynamic inflection, “singing” on the oboe, rhythmic discipline and much more. My goal is to have 12 young musicians who do more than play the notes!

Bob’s oboe studio at the Sewanee Music Festival

The annual concerto competition, recitals featuring my students Amy Cassiere, Nathaniel Wolff and Jordan Howard and two orchestra concerts have given my students opportunities to shine. The Symphony #4 by Tchaikovsky was the big work on Sunday and the students really delivered! Jamie Sanidad had some beautiful moments on the oboe. Stravinsky’s “Firebird” is on tap for this week and tonight we’ll have a sectional to review the important material from seven different works for orchestra. This week five students will join me for the 4th of July concert. Tuba player and organizer Eric Bubacz has prepared a patriotic celebration that is heavy on Sousa marches. This concert is usually very popular with the local music lovers. If it sounds like the students are busy, they are! To counteract their musical lives, a soccer game has been scheduled, along with a trip into Nashville, movie night, a barbecue, hikes, a talent show and much more. The volume level in the cafeteria seems to rise as young men and women make friends on this special place high on a hilltop in Tennessee.

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes

The Ring is Completed and a Return Home

Vienna Kiss

Different repertoire for an orchestra allows for certain individuals and certain sections to have their moment in the sun. Playing Wagner showcases the brass, and this was particularly apparent as we completed The Ring Cycle. Unlike our two previous viewings of the operas “Das Rheingold” and “Die Walküre”, this time we had seats inside the Vienna Opera House. Sir Simon Rattle continued on the podium, and the Vienna Philharmonic added their firepower which consisted of augmented sections throughout the brass. Hearing the sound of two tubas on opposite sides of the pit, a full contingent of horns and Wagnerian tubas, four brilliant trumpets, four amazing trombones and heroic offstage horn solos was really thrilling! The voices were powerful and in “Siegfried”, the title character acted and sung by Stephen Gould will be a memory that will last for a long time. His scenes of trying to play a crudely whittled reed-pipe, accompanied by an aching offstage solo English Horn and the famous offstage horn calls were both beautifully timed and convincingly mimed. We marveled at the ability of these singers to sing at full voice for an entire five hours, and with “Götterdämmerung”, five and a half hours! One of the things that we especially noticed was the tremendous applause given to the orchestra at the end of the performance. It was as though the audience understood the musicians had also successfully finished this marathon event. In a way, it felt like it had been an accomplishment for us too. Lisa began planting the idea of seeking out other performances of the Ring. We’ll see.

Parliament Building in Budapest

View of Budapest and the Danube River

We decided to go to Budapest. With just a backpack, we checked in to the Danubius Hotel overlooking the Danube River. Our room on the fourth floor offered a great view of the river teeming with cruise ships, barges and other boats. The Parliament building and the bridges make a big impression, but we were still on a “musical journey” and I was eager to see the Bela Bartok home and museum. Bartok didn’t care for the city, and his home for 11 years was on the outskirts of Budapest. We took the #5 bus to the end of the line and walked a bit through a beautiful quiet neighborhood. Bird calls accompanied us on our walk to a two-story home with a surrounding fence. We were buzzed in through the front gate and soon met “Agnes”. Agnes gave us a tour of the home where Bartok composed “Contrasts”, two string quartets, “Mikrokosmos”, the Music for Strings, Percussion and Celesta, the 2nd Violin Concerto and much more.

Bartok House, with tour guide Agnes

The home contained the original phonograph Bartok used to record more than 8000 folk songs! A topographical map pinpointed the villages Bartok had visited over a 20-plus year period gathering material. A great photograph of him traveling with his phonograph while riding in the back of a rustic wooden cart hangs on one of the walls. Besides the folk songs, Bartok collected regional costumes, folk instruments from various villages, ceramic pitchers and insects. The bugs were on display and were the inspiration for his piano composition, “Mikrokosmos”. The piece was written for his young son, Peter Bartok, and imitates the sounds made by insects. Lisa remembers playing the piece on piano, but seeing the little bugs gave the composition a little more meaning. The dining room furniture was made up of some beautifully handmade pieces from a maker in Transylvania. They were unique and personal. The maker’s photograph hung on the wall along with family and friends, including Zoltan Kodaly.

Bartok’s home

Many of the photographs show Bartok with a cigarette in hand and it would be lung disease that would cause his death in a New York hospital at the age of 65. The home was a popular place for musical gatherings during Bartok’s lifetime and an attractive recital space is still used today. Lisa bought some Bartok flute compositions that the museum had for sale. Somehow, knowing Bartok as a human being gives us a stronger feeling for his music. We both look forward to performing his music again.

Liszt Academy of Music

One of the more important and most beautiful music schools in Europe is the Franz Liszt Academy of Music in Budapest. Notable alumni include Bela Bartok, Antal Dorati, Zoltan Kodaly, Gyorgy Ligeti, Eugene Ormandy, Fritz Reiner, Janos Starker, Georg Solti and many more. We were aided by a young violinist, O’sz Puspoki Dorottya, from the neighboring high school conservatory in finding the Academy just in time to attend a free vocal recital by Zsofia Stasny. We enjoyed different aspects of the recital, but were distracted by the beauty of the concert hall. The Art Nouveau style is one of the best examples in all of Europe. One recital seemed like it didn’t offer enough time to take in all there was to see. We lingered after the applause died down, giving us time to enjoy the view.

Liszt Hall

The next day we enjoyed the beautiful spa connected to Hotel Danubius. There was a feeling that many of the Hungarian people using the spa did so on a regular basis. Those tans probably don’t happen sitting on the couch at home!

We returned by train to Vienna in time to hear the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra conducted by one of our favorites, Andris Nelsons. The program featured the Mozart Violin Concerto in D with Baiba Skride, who has played with us in Utah several times. Her playing had style and some expressive use of dynamics. The orchestra did a great job too. In the second half, we heard the Bruckner 7th Symphony. There was some excellent string and brass playing, and the audience expressed their appreciation long after the final fortissimo chord.

We enjoyed spending more time with Alexandra Turk from the University of Music and Performing Arts in Vienna. Her work with physiology and musicians takes her to many important cities, and her stories of life in St. Petersburg were especially entertaining. She also has a discerning ear, and her musical opinions often matched our own.

Danube River

After having enjoyed being on canal, river and boat rides many times previously in Europe, we decided on taking a “three-hour tour” on the Danube River aboard the “Blue Danube”. My childhood memories of TV and the tales of the crew of the S.S. Minnow being shipwrecked on “Gilligan’s Island” were quite different from this three-hour cruise. Our time on board the Blue Danube allowed us opportunities to see how a lock system operates, to take in another beautiful city from a different perspective, eat a delicious lunch and perhaps see graffiti in another way. In Vienna there seems to be an encouragement of graffiti art along the banks of the Danube River. Much of it I would describe as both colorful and creative. I took pictures and sent them to my son in New York City. It’s good to have a second opinion! People might ask whether the Danube is indeed blue? I’d probably say it’s more a muddy sage green, but “The Muddy Sage Green Waltz” by Strauss doesn’t have the same kind of ring! He probably was thinking about marketing.

George Solti statue

Graffiti along the Danube

It’s been suggested that we’ll experience “culture shock” upon returning to the States after three months in Europe. We imagine missing the experiences of Europe, the concerts, afternoon “kuchen” at an outdoor café, the architecture, pedestrian-friendly streets and plazas, the cobblestone charm, etc., but coming home can be nice. There is family, friends, peanut butter, tacos, ice cubes, TV in English, the English language, not living out of a suitcase, smoke-free environments, the Farmers Market, a familiar pillow and ….. I could use a haircut! We’ll look back and smile at having seen “Duck Dynasty” dubbed in German, or seeing the word “Geschwindigkeitsbegrenzung”, which I learned means speed limit in German or reviewing the hundreds of photographs taken in nine amazing countries.

The plane touched down safely in Salt Lake City. We have a nephew’s wedding coming up and Lisa soon heads to Arcata, California to teach at the Sequoia Chamber Music Workshop. I go for a month to Sewanee, Tennessee where I hope to make a difference for twelve young oboe players. For any musician, it’s a lot about the journey, and being “on the road” has many rewards. We always look forward to what’s next. Next for me will be a month on a mountain in Tennessee and what might be one of the more intense musical experiences in America. Stay tuned!

Tucker Weathers, Colleen Hampton Weathers, Lisa and Bob

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes

Back in Vienna

Opera on the Square

If you are on a “musical journey” in Vienna, it’s hard to do it all; however, a priority for us was to see Wagner’s “Ring of the Nibelung”. This cycle of four epic operas was first presented at the Bayreuth Festival 99 years ago and changed music as we knew it. We tried to procure tickets for all four performances come rain or shine. Two of them were free, but our seats were outside of the opera house! Being on the wait list gave us another European experience when no seats were available inside. We saw “Das Rheingold” and “Die Walküre” on the plaza in front of a huge screen. As with the HD performances from the Metropolitan Opera, these performances featured different camera angles and interviews from the cast and conductor (Simon Rattle). The graphics made the opening scene of “Das Rheingold” look like the characters were under water. The voices were powerful, and the orchestra was excellent. Seeing a Wagner opera is like watching a long story. You begin to notice that there are few, if any, cadences. Seeing it outdoors means that the story can be accompanied by the sounds of the city. Honking horns, sirens, whirling helicopters, chanting gangs and horses clopping down on the cobblestone streets was the “norm”. The audience outside is much more transient. Sitting for two and a half hours straight can be a challenge, but more so when it rains, which was our experience when watching “Das Rheingold”. Fortunately, we brought our foul weather gear. Thanks, Weather App! “Die Walküre” is more than four and a half hours long but comes with two intermissions. On the second break, we left to get something to drink and returned to see our seats occupied. We stood until an opening presented itself and sat for the remainder of the opera. Two hundred or so fans around us joined those inside to applaud the production.

Strauss Waltzes at the Kursalon

We also wanted to experience the “Viennese” waltz while in town, so we attended a concert of Strauss waltzes in the touristy Kursalon where Strauss conducted during the 19th century. When you say the name Strauss in Vienna, one thinks of a family dynasty that spanned decades. The “Waltz King” (Johann II) was the son and brother of famous composers and is the one that packs in the crowds on a daily basis. Personable Viennese gentlemen in period costumes stroll the streets selling tickets to as many as six different nightly concerts featuring the music of Strauss, Lehar, Mozart, Von Suppé, etc. The one we attended was sold out, and there was a second small orchestra (also playing waltzes) two floors below us that played to a full house as well. The show was entertaining, and I kept thinking that this might be a good city to be a freelance musician if you like Strauss.

We enjoyed a wonderful performance of Rossini’s opera “La Cenerentola”. It was set in 1950’s Italy and starred Serena Malfi in the title role with some great sets and costumes. After hearing such wonderful music, it seemed sad to think that Rossini spent so much of his life NOT composing. His love of food and entertaining was legendary.

Beethoven Memorial

Statues, streets, cafes and bakeries honor the many composers who called Vienna their home. We enjoyed seeing the apartments of Mozart and Beethoven, having cake and coffee at the Mozart Cafe, snapping pictures next to memorial statues of Schubert, Mahler, Brahms and more and hearing their music. It was often played in stores and restaurants.

We made a trip to the Esterhazy Palace where Haydn worked for more than forty years! His home was modest, but the palace was not. Our tour of the palace made it possible to see the beautiful concert hall where many of “Papa” Haydn’s 104 symphonies were first performed. We often imagined being able to travel back in time to hear such concerts.

Esterhazy Palace

One of the more interesting concerts of our sabbatical was hearing the Vienna Philharmonic conducted by Simon Rattle where the second half of the performance consisted of eleven movements from different Haydn symphonies. The variety of musical personality and inventiveness was really amazing and highlighted why I love hearing Haydn’s music. The orchestra played so beautifully, especially in the slower movements. There is pride in their music-making and the “Viennese” sound. This sound is reflected in the carryover of musical instruments, most notably the oboe. Often when I hear an oboist from Vienna, my first reaction is that the tone quality is like the English Horn but with higher notes. The instruments themselves are more creatively designed than French oboes. They have bulbous curves and keys which make me ask, “What does this do?” Still, beautiful phrasing is beautiful phrasing.

Musikverein in Vienna

Since our sabbatical began, our tally of performances has hit one hundred, and we are still going strong. Number one hundred was a performance by the Vienna Symphony conducted by Jaap van Zweeden. The program featured Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 2 and Shostakovich Symphony No. 5. David Frey was the soloist and played with a strong degree of technical accuracy. The Symphony was exciting, especially the tutti passages.

We enjoyed seeing the art collection at the Belvedere Palace and the Secession Museum. Gustav Klimt was the featured artist in both museums, “The Kiss” in one and the “Beethoven Frieze” in the other. Like all great artists, his work draws you in. Another significant work was the large painting of “The Philharmonic” by Max Oppenheimer. It took him 26 years to complete and measures about 20 feet across. Gustav Mahler is on the podium. We both agreed that turning the Belvedere Palace (or any palace) into an art museum seemed like a good idea.

Belvedere Palace

We have seen more than twenty operas since the sabbatical began, giving us a wide range of repertoire. “Salome” by Richard Strauss was especially exciting. Gun-Brit Barkmin sang the starring role, and the Vienna Philharmonic was in top form. The costumes and sets looked like the art work of Gustav Klimt. The director did a great job of capturing the madness of Salome.

Arnold Schoenberg Center

We saw the Arnold Schoenberg Center, which happened to be located near our apartment. There was a room which duplicated his studio in L.A., numerous videos of his orchestral and chamber works being performed and interviews with the players and conductors. It was very interesting.

Big cities attract big orchestras from around the globe. The Philadelphia Orchestra came to town, so we went to hear them play the Shostakovich Violin Concerto and Tchaikovsky’s Symphony No. 5. Oddly enough, this was our fifth time hearing the Shostakovich Violin Concerto since the sabbatical began! This doesn’t matter when you are hearing such a great soloist (Lisa Batiashvili) and a great orchestra. Ms. Batiashvili’s playing was poetic and exciting. I was especially thrilled to hear Mark Gigliotti (bassoon), David Cramer (flute) and Holly Blake (contra bassoon) play starring roles in the demanding Shostakovich Concerto. Mark, David and I were friends/classmates at Curtis, and their beautiful sounds have only gotten better with time. On the second half, Yannick Nezet-Seguin led the orchestra in a fabulous performance of the Tchaikovsky. There are so many star players in the Philadelphia Orchestra, but I have to mention clarinetist Ricardo Morales, oboist Richard Woodhams and horn player Jennifer Montone. All had inspiring moments. Former Utah Symphony musicians Jeff Kirschen, Shelley Showers and Dara Morales all contributed with typical excellence. During the days that followed, we enjoyed spending time with Dara, Mark, Holly, David, Jonathan Blumenfeld and his close friend from Berlin Ina Lontorfos. With all the Austrian pastries available, it wasn’t too hard filling our social calendar and my sweet tooth.

Jonathan Blumenfeld, Ina Lontorfos, Bob, Lisa and David Cramer

The University of Music and Performing Arts in Vienna is one of the leading music schools in Europe. Antonio Salieri founded this school in 1817, and some former instructors on the roster include Paul Hindemith, Pablo Casals, Fritz Kreisler and Pierre Boulez, to name a few. A large student body of over 3000 study music, theater, film and more. One of the instructors is Alexandra Turk, who Lisa has known for many years through family connections. Alexandra is a physiotherapist who helps musicians understand breathing, mental health and physical health as it relates to playing their instruments. She gave us a great tour of the school, and we met some of her colleagues. Playing an instrument is more involved than just playing the right notes, and this school seems committed to helping young musicians in every way possible.

Lisa, Mark Gigliotti, Holly Blake and Dara Morales

Two hundred and one years after it’s premiere in Vienna, we went to see “Fidelio”by Beethoven. It was another exciting production where one of the main characters was the orchestra! When the Vienna Philharmonic played the “Leonore” Overture No. 3 before the final scene, the applause following the final chord was startling! It is part of that “Viennese pride” mentioned earlier. The voices were superb and the orchestral writing thrilling. One could understand the argument that this is the best opera ever written. We felt very fortunate to have been there.

Alexandra Turk and Lisa Byrnes

We’ve decided to make a trip in two days to Budapest, home to Bartok and Kodály. We are trying to pack it all in before our flight back to the States in a few days. Someone recently suggested we might experience “culture shock” upon our return. Maybe if I learn how to make a good apple strudel that will help.

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes

More Prague

Astronomical clock from 1410

Even without the Moldau River, the beautiful bridges and the imposing palaces in the distance, you might still know you’re in Prague. Firstly, there are a lot of Americans! It is a popular destination for students and the study abroad programs. Older visitors may be attracted to the abundance of fascinating architecture or perhaps the goulash, sausages and pork knuckle. Antique stores, well-fed pigeons, Segways, “change” stores, mimes and vintage automobiles are most everywhere.

Near one of the main squares is an astronomical clock that still runs and attracts attention. Not bad for something built in 1410! One of the common sights are the “Trdelník” (turtleneck) vendors. This tubular pastry treat, cooked on a rotisserie, can be covered with sugar, almonds or chocolate and can be a mess to eat! I still tried. Groups of men, 10 to 15, are also a common sighting. We’re not sure if they are part of a sports team, drinking club or men on the prowl! We nicknamed them “Bro Gangs”. There didn’t seem to be a female equivalent.

Trdelník treat

In Prague, as in much of Europe, there are no laws on walking etiquette. The streets and sidewalks can be very crowded, and walking on the right is not a universal precept. Consequently, run-ins with strangers are common. A game of “Chicken” can ensue unless YOU get out of the way! It might remind someone of “The Zaks” by Dr. Seuss where the south going Zak meets up with a north going Zak and they both refuse to deviate from their path. While their stubbornness continues, the world builds itself around them. Attempting to avoid an “international incident”, we would most often yield the right-of-way.

Leading the “Bro-Gang”

We found time to visit the Dvorak and Smetana museums. Besides his years in the United States, Dvorak was a world traveler. “I would give all my symphonies to have invented the steam engine!” he said. He seemed devoted to his family and proud of his Czech heritage. Smetana’s papers were in good supply and, like Mendelssohn, he was a talented artist. Several of his drawings supported that reputation. Our opinion of the importance of the Czech influence on classical music has been elevated when we’ve learned that this area of the world produced composers like Zelenka, Hummel, Mahler, Janacek, Martinu, Smetana, Dvorak and others.

Dvořák Museum

Our second apartment in Prague was near the Charles Bridge, a popular pedestrian walkway over the Moldau River. Artists and musicians line the long bridge competing for the tourist dollar or Euro. Seeing groups of musicians playing together became an everyday occurrence. Maybe a Slavonic dance by Dvorak or a folk song by Janacek? No, it was most often American jazz! Hearing a Czech bassoonist play jazz on the street was fun!

Our concert-going schedule continued with a performance of the Academy of Ancient Music Berlin, one of the premiere baroque ensembles in the world. The ensemble of about 20 musicians were a delight to hear and watch. They mostly stood while they played, including the cello players. Their instruments however rested on the seats of cushioned chairs. One fellow playing a straight contra bassoon got to have a seat. His ten-foot long instrument looked more like a rocket launcher! Fortunately, his “sights” were pointing at the opposing balcony! The conductor was also the concertmaster, and he danced his way through every movement of Lalande, Telemann and Handel, insuring some beautiful ensemble playing. Hearing the baroque oboes was a treat for me.

Historical Contrabassoon

The Prague Symphony Orchestra, with Pietari Inkinen conducting, played an interesting program of music by Hanus, Rautavaara and Mahler. The Rautavaara was a movement from his 6th Symphony and had us wishing to hear more. The Mahler was his 5th Symphony. There were various highlights like the Adagietto movement for strings, the horn playing or the bass drum solo in movement 2, but for the most part the performance was rather rough around the edges, with suspect intonation and ensemble.

Smetana Museum

The Czech Philharmonic was definitely a step up in quality. Another “Jiri” (there are 16 musicians in the Czech Phil. with the name Jiri!), Jiri Belohlavek, conducted an exciting Mahler Symphony No. 3. Oddly, for the fourth time in four nights at the Smetana Hall, there was a medical issue which required attention amongst the concert-goers. This time the performance stopped. A woman in the second row fainted. Medical personnel came to the rescue and shortly thereafter, four healthy men lifted the woman off the floor and then rushed her down the center aisle of the hall and out the back doors. Afterwards, Maestro Belohlavek resumed the first movement, giving the audience an opportunity to hear the beautiful trombone solo a second time! The evening featured some terrific brass playing, excellent string work and the gorgeous alto voice of Elisabeth Kulman. The concertmaster solos were also excellent and what seems to be the custom, flowers were awarded to the conductor, soloist and concertmaster at the concert’s conclusion.

Estates Theatre where Mozart premiered his “Don Giovanni”

I told Lisa I thought it was easier to get lost in Prague than a place like Venice. I shouldn’t have said that! In our only concert debacle (so far) in Europe, we were unable to find the venue for a flute recital up by the Prague Palace. We walked around for more than an hour trying to find this particular hall. Maybe if it had been an oboe recital instead? But what’s a few miles when you’re consuming Trdelníks and chocolate every day!

In the same theater that saw it’s premiere in 1787, we enjoyed Mozart’s “Don Giovanni”. After seeing “The House of the Dead” and “Boris Godunov”, this was indeed a breath of fresh air! The costumes, sets, hairdos and voices were really special. The action included huge masks worn by members of the chorus, dance sequences during the instrumental segments, old black and white film being projected on the back wall, black roses that would suddenly pop up from the floor, a boy dressed like the grown-up Don Giovanni and much more. The small orchestra played very well and balanced the singers at every moment.

St. Nicholas Cathedral

As in Karlovy Vary, we heard a concert of mostly baroque music in a magnificent church, this time featuring voice, organ and the oboe playing of Vojtech Jouza, a member of the Czech Philharmonic. He presented the music of Handel and Marcello and reinforced what I’m oft to say, “I never met a church the oboe didn’t like”! This St. Nicholas Church is a perfect example of baroque art. There are paintings and sculptures on the ceiling, a checkerboard stone floor, an enormous dome and gold everywhere! Mozart performed on the organ there during one of his many visits to the city.

Living next to the busiest bridge in town can be a mixed blessing. A popular sports bar emptied on to our little street and closing time was most often around 3:00am. This would be about the time I’d awaken to hear lively Czech discussions and the sports bar staff dumping beer bottles into the large trash receptacles. The week before, the Americans had beaten the beloved Czech hockey team in the world championship, so it surprised me to hear a group singing “We Are the Champions” by Queen. Maybe one of their countrymen had just won a darts championship! Anyway, Freddie Mercury would have enjoyed the celebration!

Another restaurant recommendation from Lisa’s friend Steven Schultz brought us to “U Fleku”. Imagine going back a few hundred years. The menu is not long but the roasted chicken and beer hall atmosphere was excellent! Thanks, Steven!

Bridal poses

Another peculiar sighting in different European capitals is young brides and grooms taking pictures of themselves. Sometimes there’s a photographer, but often times not. The bride can be seen wearing her wedding dress and, with today’s technology, selfies are the norm. In Venice I remember seeing many young brides in their wedding dresses just strolling about. Maybe their photo shoot was over!

The Spring Festival has been seen by much of the world through live-streaming, and we were fortunate enough to see one of the popular groups live. The Afflatus Quintet performed in an abbey built in 1230. A large film crew covered most every angle of this excellent woodwind quintet. Their program included works by Reicha, Strauss, Eder, Poulenc and Stravinsky. This group has been together for 20 years and consists of players from various orchestras in Prague. Most memorable was the horn playing of Radek Baborak. He sounded like a 5th woodwind with amazing facility, control and musicality! In the “Till Eulenspiegel” and “Firebird” transcriptions he handled what sounded like 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th horn solos with heroic ease! It’ll be a long-lasting memory! Oboist, Jana Brozkova, used some dynamic phrasing that was especially inspiring.

The Afflatus Quintet

It was hard to say goodbye to Prague, but two weeks in Vienna is next. We just might be waltzing before too long!

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes

Prague & Karlsbad

Charles Bridge and Stare Mesto (Old Town)

The train trip into the Czech Republic is especially scenic. The alps are gone, but the lush rolling hills remain. Huge fields of yellow rapeseed blanket the landscape. The crop is used to produce canola oil, and back home I seem to use a lot of it. The language changes from the sounds of Switzerland as does the make-up of the words themselves. The Czech language seems to be about consonants and different accents, like Polish or Slavic. It’s the most “foreign” of our foreign languages to speak during our three months in Europe. Like a lot of places we go, their English is better here than my attempts to speak the native tongue, but it’s a good idea to know key words or phrases. We study on the train.

Prague Spring Festival, Smetana Hall, “Ma Vlast” with NDR Hamburg Symphony

We’re in Prague for the Spring Music Festival. The weather is good, and our apartment is in a good location. We’ll use some public transportation but probably walk most everywhere. Our place has a kitchen, so we find several small stores to do our shopping.

The opening night of the festival took place at Smetana Hall and featured the NDR Symphony Orchestra of Hamburg. On the program was probably the most important piece of classical music to the Czech people, “Ma Vlast” by Smetana. His music often incorporates Czech folk songs, and the complete “Ma Vlast” takes about 90 minutes. Of all the venues we’ve enjoyed for concerts, opera, recitals and ballet, this is the most beautiful! It includes paintings by Alfons Mucha, stained glass windows in the Art Nouveau style, statues on the walls and ceiling, brass decorative lattice work, rows of globe lights and more. The concert was sold out, and we had spots in the “standing room only” section. The orchestra’s Music Director is Thomas Hengelbrock and he led the orchestra in a passionate performance from start to finish. The visiting orchestra was enthusiastically received.

Dvořák Hall, International Flute Competition

This year the festival hosted the International Flute Competition, and we heard the four finalists perform C.P.E. Bach, Quantz and Frank Martin with orchestra. The four young musicians were French and Korean and were spectacular. We debated their merits, but in the end, the first prize winner was Yubeen Kim. At the awards ceremony he happened to sit down next to us. I caught his picture seconds before the announcement. Even though getting to this point meant thousands upon thousands of hours of practice, it might still have seemed like a surprise to Mr. Kim. We’ll enjoy following his career.

The Alfons Mucha Museum is in Prague and as we own five of his prints, we thought it was an important spot to visit. Mucha was a leader in the Art Nouveau style and a Czech hero. He became famous for his beautiful decorative art paintings, and the museum collection, early photographs and his biography were really fascinating. He died shortly after being arrested by the Gestapo.

Alfons Mucha Museum

We also heard two of the finalists for the International Clarinet Competition. This year’s winner might be a familiar name to several of our colleagues in the Utah Symphony. His name is Sang Yoon Kim and he is a graduate of the Colburn School of Music in Los Angeles.

We saw the opera “From the House of the Dead” by Smetana. The music was chaotic and one audience member yelled “boo!” at the first intermission. However, nationalistic pride produced many more “bravos” at the opera’s conclusion. Like many “box” seats in opera houses, it was hard to see the action on stage. It gave me more of an opportunity to evaluate the music. It wasn’t to my liking.

“La Traviata” at the State Opera

Seeing “La Traviata” by Verdi the next night was more enjoyable. Svatopluk Sem, who sang the role of Giorgio Germont, was a standout, and hearing those familiar beautiful long melodies was enjoyable. For the second night in a row, the action on stage included female nudity. Having seen it on Czech TV and elsewhere, it’s not so much of an issue here as in Utah!

Smoking is surprisingly pervasive in Europe. It’s allowed in outdoor areas and if you are attempting to escape an overheated opera house or enjoy dinner outside, it can be hard to escape. We are often adjusting our location to find a smoke-free environment. It seems disturbingly ironic to see health and beauty specialists smoking outside of a day spa or people at the top of a Swiss alp taking in the fresh air and view while lighting up.

Even angels smoke in Prague!

In the Dvořák hall, there is a poster of the Czech Philharmonic. They employ 118 musicians. In both the flute and trumpet sections there appear to be a father/son combination. In Utah we are about 84 musicians and we work with four musicians named “David”. In the Czech Phil they have 16 players with the name “Jiri”! We’ll hear them this week.

We went to visit the cemetery with the grave sites of Dvořák and Smetana. Flowers adorn their graves, and on Smetana’s granite tombstone were the seven notes from the second flute solo which starts “The Moldau”! At both sites small crowds stood in reflection. High on a hill was another vantage point to overlook the beautiful city and the winding Moldau River below.

Dvořák’s gravesite

The St. Petersburg Philharmonic was in town for two concerts, and we attended both of them. Yuri Temirkanov was on the podium, and we enjoyed the Shostakovich Symphonies No.7 & No. 5. It’s a huge orchestra with a huge sound. I was struck by the expressive wind and brass playing and the wall of sound from the strings. The winds have a greater refinement than their recordings from the 20th century, and Temirkanov kept his conducting to a minimum. The second concert featured Julian Rachlin playing the Shostakovich Violin Concerto. Since the sabbatical began, this is our fourth time hearing this concerto! We may have saved the best for last! Mr. Rachlin was really in command. The opening and his lack of vibrato made this music sound icy cold. His tone developed into a beautifully romantic quality and then the driving force in the Allegro made me think he could saw his Stradivari violin in two!

Smetana’s grave stone

His Paganini encore was equally spectacular! During the concerts on two consecutive nights, the action on stage went uninterrupted while two people in the audience had to receive medical attention. The response to each who had fainted was immediate, but the wooden seats and platforms where we sat were so noisy that Mr. Rachlin could be noticeably seen looking out into the audience and the area where the medical personnel had gathered. The first ill fellow sat in the row in front of us, and I thought this might be his last time hearing a concert, but he came to and managed to walk through the aisle with some assistance to the exit.

Hearing the St. Petersburg Philharmonic confirmed the importance of what we call the auxiliary instruments in an orchestra. This orchestra had some terrific musicians playing piccolo, E-flat clarinet and bass clarinet! These solo instruments really made the most of their opportunities, and in the music of Shostakovich, they come often!

View of Karlsbad

We enjoyed a night in the beautiful and modern Design Hotel Elephant before taking the train to Karlovy Vary, or Karlsbad. This town has for centuries been known for it’s therapeutic hot water springs. Lisa had booked this amazing room in a pensione overlooking the city, thanks to her flute playing friend and travel connoisseur Steven Schultz. The buildings are painted in a variety of pastel colors and are beautifully maintained. Most are five or six stories high and have names like Mozart, Menuet, Alisa and Nikolina. The streets are almost void of cars. The long promenades are filled with people sipping and strolling. They can be seen munching on Oplatky wafers and drinking the warm or hot mineral waters from their individual “pohareks”. These vessels come in a variety of shapes and sizes. They are ceramic and include a narrow spout that receives the water on the way to your mouth. I got a little one. The water has a faint flavor of tea. It’s supposed to help with digestion, your liver and a long list of things that must be promoted by the local travel bureau! On our second day in Karlovy Vary we heard an afternoon recital of soprano, flute and organ music in the Mary Magdalene Church and an evening performance of operetta music with the Karlovy Vary Philharmonic. This concert featured many Strauss waltzes. There were a total of nine violins, so after the St. Petersburg Phil., it seemed a bit thin. The audience enjoyed the music.

“Taking the waters”

Karlovy Vary is a place that had been frequented by people like Bach, Beethoven, Brahms, Mozart, Dvořák, Smetana, Chopin, Puccini, Strauss, Mahler, Tchaikovsky and many others. Movie stars have come to this town, and part of “Casino Royale” with Daniel Craig as 007 was shot at the Grand Pupp hotel. The German writer and statesman, Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe, used to take walks in the woods with Beethoven. I’m not sure if the spring waters helped us or not, but we found a spa in town where we spent three hours enjoying the same benefits that may have been experienced by these famous composers. The spa was built around the stone mountainside. The pool is made from small ceramic tiles in different shades of green with streaks of gold and silver. The irregular shape has rounded borders and the water sloshes over the side. One of our treatments included going from one very hot pool to a very cold pool and back and forth. It made me think of Goldilocks trying to find the porridge that was “just right”. That wasn’t it! I then relaxed and breathed deeply in an electro-inhalation room and then went for a massage with “Victor”. Victor was a stocky middle aged man who quickly got me on the massage table. His technique was aggressive. It made me think he had been an interrogator with the KGB! When he seemed to be pounding on my back the rhythm from a fast March by Shostakovich, I half expected him to say, “You vill tell us vhat ve vant to know!” He put an hour of himself into 15 minutes, and I thought afterwards that he might be the one that needs a massage! Lisa whined about the light massage she got from her masseuse. Next time she can get Victor!

Dvořák statue

We enjoyed our strolls, our sipping, some good food and the views overlooking Karlovy Vary. We took a picture of the Dvořák sculpture in the park and shopped around for more pohareks.

On our last morning, we walked up to see the Russian Orthodox Church passing places like the Chopin Villa, the Smetana Villa and the Tchaikovsky Palace. In the same area was the Russian Embassy and a statue of Karl Marx. This spot marked the entrance to the forest said to be frequented by Beethoven and many others. Immediately, the early morning sound of birds is apparent. They were singing in a way that reminded me of Beethoven’s 6th Symphony. Could they too be in F Major? We wondered if Beethoven could have heard these calls. There was definitely something magical about this forest, and a little further up was a plaque identifying a spot where Tchaikovsky had stopped to look and listen.

Historic mineral springs colonnade

The rains came, and with our pohareks in hand, we were soon back in Prague. In some of Europe’s oldest cities, there are spots where time seems to stand still. We keep our eyes open and try to take it all in.

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes

Switzerland

Travel can take a lot of planning and be surprisingly taxing. On a spring day in May we left beautiful Lake Como for a different kind of beautiful, the Swiss Alps. This trip required a ferry to Menaggio, a hydrofoil to Como, a half-mile walk to the train station, a train to Arth-Goldau, a train to Lucerne, a train to Interlaken and finally a train to Lauterbrunnen. And this involves two countries that share a border! All those switches are a good reason to pack light because all those changes mean hauling (for us) two suitcases, two backpacks, a couple of ljackets, a purse and the “emergency gf food bag”.

Scenic train trip into Switzerland

One of the things we first noticed heading towards Switzerland was the color of the water. There are a lot of lakes and rivers. The colors would best be described as teal, or sage, or aqua marine. It’s a sign that you’re heading to glacier territory. Though their numbers are diminishing, there are still many glaciers working their magic between the highest peaks of Europe. In different parts of Europe you might also notice the sounds of the birds. In both Italy and Switzerland the bird calls are like Italian baroque music with plenty of embellishment. It reminds me of the difference between “bye” and “arrivederci!”

Happy cows in Lauterbrunnen

Lauterbrunnen is a narrow valley sandwiched between monster mountains that shoot up vertically to the 12 and 13,000 foot level. It’s a popular place for base jumpers and para-gliders. We didn’t see any of the former but we saw a lot of the latter. We would often spot them twirling and swirling to one of several landing spots in Lauterbrunnen and neighboring Interlaken. Small gatherings of cows with bells are common. This resulted in Lisa singing parts of Mahler’s 1st symphony for a couple of hours! Hay is gathered in giant marshmallow shaped coverings and there are huge fields of dandelions. A narrow, though fast-rushing river streams down the valley and from our hotel balcony we can count four waterfalls. Snow is still on most of the mountain peaks and has even fallen on the day of our arrival. This is part of the trip where we’re glad to have a coat!

Bobsledding at Schilthorn

The local cuisine is hearty. There is plenty of dairy, cheese, meat and potatoes. A local dish called “rosti” is so popular with Lisa, she ordered it five times in five days! We dine at a couple of restaurants high in the Alps and I wonder, “Is there a reason why this should taste better at 10 or 11,000 feet?” Maybe it’s the hiking involved to get there. Of course the scenery is amazing! The air is clear, and from atop Jung-Frau and Shilthorn, where they filmed most of the 007 movie “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”, you can see Italy and Germany. We took time to take pictures with James Bond and check out the obligatory collection of Swiss watches. The watches are pricey, but I needed a Swiss Army knife, so I got that instead.

Hiking to Murren

We’re in and on the Swiss Alps on the birthday of both Brahms and Tchaikovsky. Brahms was a true nature-lover and knew the Alps from his youth. His biographer, Jan Swafford, wrote “The melody for the finale of the C-minor symphony actually traces the shape of the Alps as Brahms viewed them during a hike.” I tried to see the melody, but I must have been on another trail! Mendelssohn was also a frequent visitor to the Alps, and the scenes from his watercolors that we saw in his home in Leipzig took on a little more meaning. With all these connections with classical music’s great composers, we are still reminded they were people too.

Honegger 20 Franc note

In Switzerland, the Euro is out and the Swiss franc is in. But who can complain when you see on the 20 franc note the face of composer Arthur Honegger! I hate to part with the bill, but that Swiss chocolate is calling. The language in Switzerland is not the German we have worked on knowing. You might hear German words, but the accent is more Gaelic. Somewhere back in time, the Scots and Irish no doubt settled in this area. They must have wanted a hiking challenge! We learn the important words (usually food related!) and the hotel staff is entertained.

We enjoyed a day taking a boat cruise on Brienz Lake by Interlaken. The views are gorgeous and we’re entertained by a couple of young fellows from Japan who “ooh” and “aah” at every new photo opportunity. The chalets all face the lake and make you wonder what life might be like living in such a place.

Boat ride at Interlaken – Lake Brienz

Waterfalls and the streams running down from the mountain tops give a sense of perpetual motion in Lauterbrunnen. Our walks take us over Lauibach, Staubbach, Geissbach and other “bachs”. This narrow swath of land has more bachs than Johann Sebastian and for someone who was a father 24 times, that’s a lot of streams! Some are so powerful you can understand the possible danger if caught in the rushing water. Like the edge of the peaks we frequent, we keep a healthy distance.

Getting to the top of the Alps usually involves a tram, a train or a funicular. One of the trains to “The Top of Europe” is so slow we quietly began chanting, “I think I can. I think I can…..” The tracks and lines are carefully maintained, so we were happy not to have to get out and push! They like to say that the alpine town of Murren is the birthplace of alpine skiing. It’s here where we enjoyed a curried rosti dinner while soaking in the view. But the restaurants in Lauterbrunnen and Murren come with furs or blankets for those sitting outdoors. At 11,000 feet we happily wore our jackets and the blankets provided by the restaurant at Hotel Alpenruh!

With Alain Moirandot and Randall Cook

We spent a day in Basel, one of the centers for Renaissance and Baroque music. One of it’s illustrious citizens is an old Curtis classmate, Randy Cook. In a former lifetime, Randy was a terrific oboist. He moved his focus to the baroque oboe and the gamba. He then began making baroque oboes. We spent several hours together enjoying the stories about his colorful career, trying one of his beautiful baroque oboes and hearing him play four different gambas. One dated back to 1550! We were drawn in to their unique voices. Randy’s longtime partner, Alain Moirandot, is one of Switzerland’s leading authorities on antique books and owns his own business. Their house has a great collection of art and old things. Alain happens to be a great cook, too. It was the first time I had ever eaten manta ray cheeks! Alain is also a great storyteller and with their guest, Christoph, we heard entertaining stories using several languages! Randy gave us a couple of CDs I know we’ll love hearing. It all made us wish we could stay longer.

My plans to meet Heinz Holliger fell through. Mr. Holliger lives in Basel and is probably the most famous oboist of the 20th century. His solo career was substantial and he is responsible for dozens of new works. He also composes, and it was for this reason that his secretary said he was out of town. It was a disappointment.

Mozartplatz in Salzburg

We enjoyed two days in Salzburg, birthplace of Wolfgang A. Mozart. Salzburg must be one of the most picturesque cities in the world. We climbed to the top of the Hohensalzburg Fortress and took advantage of a 360* view. From high above the city, we thought we could make out the spot where the nuns contemplated “How do you handle a problem like Maria” from the opening scene of “The Sound of Music”. The Alps framed one side of the city and green rolling hills were seen in all directions. From the fortress we could see the buildings Mozart called home through his teenage years. The fortress is site for a nightly concert featuring the Mozart Ensemble Salzburg. On this warm evening, we heard them play the Mendelssohn Quartet Op. 12, the Allegro from Mozart’s “”Eine Kleine Nachtmusik”, a Haydn piano concerto, a Dvorak Waltz and a couple of Strauss waltzes. The Mozart, Dvorak and Strauss were particularly good. The funicular got us down to Salzburg in a hurry. Our lodgings have features reminiscent of Mozart’s time, and the hardware on the bathroom door looks like it could keep out any intruder.

The two Mozart museums are really worth seeing. One is where he was born and lived for about eight years, and the other is where he lived before striking off on his own. About 1/3 of his life involved “being on the road”. Making the most of a child protege required a lot of travel. A map outlined the dozens of cities Mozart saw before his 18th birthday. It helped him learn several languages and that maybe bathing wasn’t such a bad idea! An original copy of his flute sonatas is on display. Not bad for someone who was 8 years old!

Mozart birth house

We took another boat ride. This time on the Salzach River. The tour guide pointed out a home lived in by Herbert van Karajan, famous conductor for much of the 20th century. At the end of the excursion, the captain played a Strauss waltz while the bow thrusters blew to the starboard and the stern thrusters blew to the port. This resulted in the big boat twirling around in circles. It was almost enough to make you dizzy!

Dinner was at a Greek restaurant close to the hotel. I mistook ouzo for water and nearly choked. Travel has it’s surprises. Next stop? Praque!

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes

Italy

The landscape changes a lot from a window on the train. The Italian Alps still have snow and the curvy tracks slow down the train and give you a chance to enjoy the view. We noticed the houses all have red-tiled roofs and they’re not in nice neat rows like we might have seen in Austria. Clay courts for tennis are a common sight and various lakes and rivers are noticeable. Lumber yards, waterfalls and tunnels are especially common. The train station in Venice is crowded with people from all over the world. Before our time in Venice is through, my red University of Utah baseball cap causes an unexpected meeting with a family from Holladay, Utah. I usually just wear it so Lisa can help spot me in a crowd. We also have a system in place for an emergency whistle if that fails.

One of the “Dueling Orchestras” in St. Mark’s Square

Getting to St. Mark’s Square (near our home for a few days) requires a boat ride of about 30 minutes from the train station. The sight of a beautiful city coming out of the water makes a big impression! It’s hard to decide which side of the boat to stand on, the view is so amazing. The big square at San Marco is bordered by an imposing palace, museums and high-end shops and restaurants. Vendors get in your face trying to sell roses, trinkets, extenders for taking selfies, flying toys, purses, etc. The wheels of our suitcases bumped over the cobblestone roads and occasional passageways. Lisa has memorized the lefts and rights to our B&B, a suggestion from Rick Steves. Our host is “Riccardo”, who grew up in Venice and operates the B&B where he grew up and still lives. We get “Sister’s Room”. She lives in Lebanon. The building is 480 years old and is being outfitted for an elevator, but for now we tackle the stairs 16th century style. It’s a tough haul to the fourth floor, but we made it.

Interpreti Venezia

On our first night in Venice we went to a church well known to Antonio Vivaldi to hear a concert of his music and other Italians. The eight person group is called “Interpreti Veneziani”, and they performed the “Four Seasons” and “alla Rustica” by Vivaldi, the Tartini Cello Concerto with Davide Amadio, the Paganini Caprice No. 9 and an encore by Corelli. Four of the eight musicians took turns in the solo role and each one was excellent. The music had variety, personality and terrific energy. We can imagine it being one of the highlights for our time in Europe. On the morning of our second day we saw Tom Hanks filming a scene on the balcony of St. Mark’s Basilica. We heard it was a sequel to “The da Vinci Code”. It helped us put “due e due” together when we were remembering a crowd scene on the same square the night before! We look forward to it’s theatrical release.

Doge Palace ceilings

We toured the Doge’s Palace, a building with amazing works of art. The rooms are huge and they are ornately decorated with statues on the ceilings, pink and white exterior walls and floors that could have used a level. We also toured the Murano Glass Factory on the island of Murano. It gave us an opportunity to see several glass blowers and see their stunning showrooms.

Glass-blowing at Murano Glass

Venice was home to two musical priests. Claudio Giovanni Antonio Monteverdi helped bridge the gap between the Renaissance and Baroque periods, and “The Red Priest”, Antonio Lucia Vivaldi, was one of the great baroque composers, predating both Bach and Handel. We tried to see all the churches where they worked. The orphanage where Vivaldi composed and where the young ladies performed still stands. High above the main floor, behind metal grates, these young musicians were admired for decades by the people of Venice and visiting music lovers. Unfortunately, Vivaldi’s final days were away from Venice and he died in poverty.

Monteverdi memorial and grave

What would a trip to Venice be without a gondola ride? The city’s rising water levels have damaged a lot of the lower floors, steps and gates along the canals, but taking a ride with an experienced gondolier is still fun! Ours could stop on a dime and negotiate the tightest opening. We didn’t get the deluxe package you can see elsewhere. It can include someone playing the accordion and another singing some Italian love song. The gondoliers all wear striped shirts, own their own boat and must go through a long apprenticeship before taking on customers. I’m still wondering how it is they stand in the back, untethered, and never fall in the water!

Evening gondola ride

We enjoyed an orchestra concert at the Malibran Theater with the Orchestra of the Teatro La Fenice conducted by Michel Tabachnik. The orchestra played Brahms Tragic Overture, the Webern Sinfonia Op. 21, “Livre pour cordes” by Boulez and Symphony No. 4 by Brahms. The orchestra played with a lot of emotion.

The Teatro La Fenice is an opera house that has been built and rebuilt a few times during it’s lifetime. Opera premieres by Rossini, Donizetti, Verdi, Wagner and Stravinsky all happened here along with the debut of Maria Callas. Though the opera house’s schedule did not allow for us to hear an opera, we did enjoy taking an extensive tour and witness part of a rehearsal. One thing you might notice about Venice is that you never see a car or bicycle. The only thing on wheels are the dozens and dozens of dollies you see making deliveries to the restaurants, homes and businesses. Without normal street traffic, the canals can easily get backed up, but the boat captains and gondoliers are so adept at maneuvering their crafts, there must be very few accidents.

La Fenice Opera House

Besides the stores selling glass, gelato and purses, one very popular sight are all the stores and vendors selling masks. Venetians love to celebrate Carnival, and it lasts for ten days! It usually takes place in February and visitors flood the islands to take part. The origins go back to the early 1600s during the time of a great plague. The masks worn by the doctors included long noses to help them keep a safer distance from their sick patients. It was common for us to see children wearing colorful masks. For some parents, coming back in the middle of winter was not an option. We enjoyed many good Italian meals. They know how to cook Italian in Italy, but who would have thought Lisa could get all that pasta and pizza without gluten?

Teatro La Scala interior

A “workers’ holiday in Milan affected our travel slightly, but we managed to take part in a couple of important events which helped kick off the 2015 World Exposition. At Teatro La Scala, we heard the opening night performance of Verdi’s “Turandot”, conducted by Riccardo Chailly and attended by Prime Minister Mateo Renzi, his wife a daughter and a substantial entourage. I don’t think they were as interested in being there as we were. There was an actual “red carpet” and film crews everywhere. La Scala is a beautiful opera house and the performance included some dramatic costumes, sets and lighting. The orchestra played in a perfectly understated way and Chailly seemed to manage the soloists, choir and orchestra like an experienced magician. The voices were all good as was the orchestra.

Upon exiting the theater, our box seats had us funneling out of the theater ahead of the prime minister. Somehow we ended up on the red carpet. All the photographers appeared ready for their cue to start shooting. It made me think of that Oscar winning movie with Roberto Benigni, “Life is Beautiful”, when he gets mistaken for someone famous and the paparazzi start following his every move. We escaped that brush with fame and made our way through the rain to the queue for a cab. Unfortunately, the workers’ strike meant cabs were few and far between. Eventually we were able to hail a cab and make it back to Hotel Johnny, our home for two days.

Toscanini – Verdi hangout in Milan

On day two of the Expo, the Berlin Philharmonic with Simon Rattle was playing at La Scala. They played Janacek’s Sinfonietta and Bruckner’s 7th Symphony. They used 11 trumpets in the Sinfonietta and a lot of extra brass in the Bruckner. Playing 1st oboe this time was Albrecht Mayer who James Hall and I met ten years ago in Berlin. He is a big name soloist and, like flutist Emmanuel Pahud, is often absent from Berlin Phil. performances. It was a treat to hear Albrecht. His playing had beauty and personality. As in the two previous Berlin Phil. concerts we heard, the strings and principal horn and trumpet stood out for their excellence.

Turandot exhibit at La Scala Museum

La Scala has a terrific museum which features the opera house’s outstanding past. Tributes to Toscanini, Verdi, Puccini and all the greats make for an enjoyable visit. One tribute was to the great Italian actress, Eleanore Duse. Because Duse is in Lisa’s family tree, we wondered if she might be part Italian. She looks a little like my mother-in-law, so maybe!

The last part of our Italian stay would take place at Lake Como, one of the world’s most beautiful lakes. Carved out by ice age glaciers, the lake looks like a distorted stick figure with no arms. Leonardo da Vinci came here from his home in Milan. Operas were composed here by Rossini, Bellini, Verdi and Puccini. Felix Mendelssohn painted pictures of the lake. Films like “Star Wars II” and “Casino Royale” used the lake as a backdrop, and Madonna, Sting and George Clooney have called it home. The Alps rise up from near the lake’s edges and pastel villas be-speckle the shorelines. We rode the ferry that connects places like Bellagio, Lenno and Varenna, where we stayed for two days. Even two overcast days couldn’t take the beauty away from this magical place. We might wish for a couple more days. Well, maybe the next sabbatical!

Boat ride on Lake Como

Next….the Swiss Alps!

– Robert Stephenson and Lisa Byrnes